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In this week’s Hong Kong Edition, we look at how holidays are worsening the situation for the city’s retail industry, highlight the poor outlook for Macau casino operators and recall the time Jesus sat with the Easter bunny in our review of a Japanese restaurant in Sheung Wan. 

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Retail Therapy

Less than two weeks after Hong Kongers made the most of a four-day weekend by getting out of town, another potentially five-day break looms starting Thursday. While the holidays are a boon for transport firms as well as retailers in the end destination, they’re exacerbating a prolonged contraction in consumption locally.

Some 2.2 million Hong Kong residents left the city from Thursday through Sunday over the Easter break, out of a total population of 7.5 million, according to Immigration Department figures. The majority of departures were through checkpoints with Shenzhen. At the same time, just 396,000 mainland Chinese visitors entered Hong Kong.

With the Hong Kong dollar hitting the highest level against the yuan since 2007 earlier this month, and deflation persisting in China, it’s little surprise that residents are increasingly choose to spend their money across the border — helped by transport links constructed in recent years. At the same time, the wave of high-spending mainland Chinese tourists that buoyed Hong Kong’s economy for much of the previous decade has failed to return post-Covid, delivering a double blow to the city’s businesses.  

The result is retail sales have fallen every month on an annualized basis since March 2024, with the most recent data showing a 13% plunge in February. While the comparison that month was distorted by Lunar New Year holidays falling in January, the value of sales was the lowest for any February since 2010, once pandemic years are stripped out.

It remains to be seen whether a series of international events held in March helped reverse the downtrend.

The upcoming exodus should be ameliorated by a greater influx of mainland Chinese visitors than seen during Easter, given the “golden week” holiday across the border. Financial Secretary Paul Chan predicted in his blog on Sunday that about 840,000 tourists from the mainland will come during the holiday period, a 10% increase from last year.

Even then, the business environment is expected to remain tough. 

“Hong Kong will likely see more inflows of mainland tourists in the Labour Day golden week than last year,” said Gary Ng, senior economist at Natixis. “However, spending increases during the holiday may not offset the pressure on other days.”

Together with the property slump, a sluggish economy, still-high borrowing costs, increasing competition from mainland firms, volatile geopolitics, and the US-China trade war, Hong Kong businesses are facing an uphill struggle. 

Confidence is falling among the city’s small and medium enterprises, which employ almost half of the private sector workforce. A recent survey by CPA Australia found only 57% of respondents expected their business to grow this year, down from a projected 69% in 2024, while a quarter said they may struggle to repay debts.

Many are buckling. In the first three months of the year, 178 companies were ordered to be wound up by a court, compared with 443 for the whole of 2024, according to official data. February’s figure was the highest since 2009.

Hong Kong’s economic outlook is also reflected in the stock market. While the Hang Seng Index, which is dominated by Chinese firms, has climbed 10% this year, the MSCI Hong Kong Index has trailed with a 1% gain. Last month, the MSCI gauge fell to its lowest level relative to the Hang Seng since 2010. 

There are few easy fixes to the current situation. The government is seeking to attract big spenders through high-profile events (see calendar below) and measures such as building marinas. In the meantime, the city’s businesses will need to innovate — and endure.

“The biggest challenge in Hong Kong’s retail sector is the structural change in residents' and foreign tourists' spending patterns and the lack of competitiveness,” said Natixis’ Ng. “This will require a lengthy transformation of the current shopping-centric model to other activities with long-term investment.” —Richard Frost and Shirley Zhao

Chart of the Week

Pity Macau casino operators. Once some of the biggest beneficiaries of China’s boom times, their shares these days are plumbing historic lows. Sands China and Galaxy Entertainment, the two largest by market value, have tumbled 33% and 15% this year, respectively — despite the rally in the Hang Seng Index. 

The industry has faced years of crackdowns as President Xi Jinping sought up to clean up the former Portuguese colony. The city’s new leader, former judge Sam Hou Fai, has criticized the casino industry for developing “in a disorderly manner” and being too dominant. Where gambling previously accounted for 63% of Macau’s GDP, it now comprises less than 40%. The tumbling share prices suggest investors aren’t betting on a turnaround anytime soon.  

The Review: Honjo Ticks All Boxes for a Team Dinner

I found myself in an unusual position of booking a team dinner recently. Within the week, I was to find a spot that was near our Central office; would accommodate a dozen people (including a special out-of-towner with dietary restrictions); ideally wasn’t staid, stuffy or predictable; and would allow folks to imbibe should they want to — all without breaking the budget.

The result was Honjo, a Pirata Group restaurant that delivered with a convivial vibe in a private-ish area, plenty of sharing plates and free-flow drinks. The set menus and drinks package meant I didn’t have to tediously track our spending for the evening. I decided for everyone ahead of time that we’d opt for the cheapest menus (I wasn’t shy about the fact there was a strict per-head budget): the Osaka set menu (HK$680 per person) that most of the table partook in, the vegetarian-friendly Nagoya (HK$580) and the more-basic “package A” for beverages (HK$280), which included two hours of free-flow draft beer, wine, sake and cocktails (it lacked the champagne and spirits in the more premium “package B”). Logistics made easy.

The restaurant’s interior has a velvety atmosphere and dark ambience. Source: Honjo

The vibe: It can be classy; it can be casual — depends on the crowd. At night, it feels like a date spot with its sumptuous, velvety atmosphere and dark ambience. But I’ve also been here during an Easter brunch when Jesus and the Easter bunny were seated at a nearby table.

Can you conduct a meeting here? Yes, the private areas aside, the tables generally aren’t right up next to each other. But if you want to talk face to face, maybe avoid the sushi bar.

How’s the food? Fun, delicious and sometimes unexpected. The portions felt a bit small sometimes, but there were many dishes (the Osaka menu had nine), most served on a platter to be shared communally. Among the surprises were the octopus tartare, which came in puffs reminiscent of pani puri, and the corn tempura, which was like a lighter corn fritter. The karaage was a hit, though the main course — if there were one — for the omnivores was a single pork belly skewer, which felt a bit skimpy. Dessert was a warm matcha lava cake that contrasted nicely with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. I also appreciated that the restaurant was accommodating to our pescatarian, who opted for the vegetarian menu, by swapping in some seafood items that were on the Osaka menu (at our request).

Octopus tartare. Source: Honjo

Need to know: Honjo is on the first floor of 77-91 Queen's Road West in Sheung Wan. The restaurant is responsive on WhatsApp (+852 6129 8600), and it has a detailed events kit so you can sort out the menus and seating, ranging from fully private to semi-private, ahead of time. It also takes reservations by phone (+852 2663 3772) and online. —Alice Truong

Read our other reviews of Hong Kong restaurants: the newly reopened Roganic, Brazilian steakhouse Picanhas’ and the Mandarin Oriental’s historical gem The Chinnery.

Photo of the Week

Peter Lee and Martin Lee, co-chairmen of Henderson Land, attend the funeral of Lee Shau-Kee on Sunday. Their billionaire father, who founded the family empire in the 1970s, died aged 97. Read his obituary herePhotographer: Chan Long Hei/Bloomberg

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