Too hot for a whiskey? Drink this instead | But as I promised—or lamented—above, let’s step away from the world of whiskey for just a moment here today. As temperatures inch north of 90F in many parts of the US, I am fully aware that some folks like to take a holiday from the grain and wood. Maybe you’re one of them, unwilling to embrace whiskey as a viable hot-weather option. I could try to persuade you to reconsider (and I probably will in the next part of this newsletter), but for right now, I’m going to meet you where you are. Below I’ve compiled the best nonwhiskey bottlings for summer sipping, broken down by the style you would otherwise prefer. For example, if you’re into unapologetically unctuous Islay Scotch, I’ve got a spryer mezcal that mimics some of those smoky tonalities, only in a beach-friendly body. If you enjoy the caramel and cinnamon of a well-matured bourbon as the autumn air settles in, you’ll love the sophisticated rum I have selected just for you. It pairs perfectly with sunscreen without tasting like it. Irish whiskey fans should drink … Tequila Ocho Añejo Barrel Select ($150)  Tequila Ocho x Old Fitzgerald collaboration Source: Old Fitzgerald Whiskey from the Emerald Isle encompasses a wide variety of styles and complexities. But in its most popular form—triple distilled and blended—it offers a rounded approachability, anchored by a discernible cereal grain soul. You’re not going to find that last bit precisely mimicked in any tequila, but you will find a generally familiar tone of earthiness from well-matured agave. This particular release from Tequila Ocho brings those earthy base notes in spades, while also delivering a regal sort of roundness. Ironically, it mines many of these Irish whiskey parallels from extended aging in barrels that formerly held a coveted brand of bourbon—Old Fitzgerald Kentucky Straight, to be exact. Scotch enthusiasts should drink ...Del Maguey Chichicapa Mezcal ($80)  Chichicapa mezcal Source: Del Maguey To be clear: Not all Scotch is smoky. The same goes for mezcal. In fact, producers and brand advocates from both categories go through great lengths to shed this stereotype. Although smokiness exists within a relatively narrow percentage of offerings, it’s such a compelling and powerful top note that it casts a wide shadow over all else. For those who enjoy Islay Scotch, specifically, where there’s smoke, it’s fire. I’m personally a massive fan of all things Bowmore. One of my favorite Scotch makers flexes a house style that often combines smoldering ash with unexpected presentations of tropical fruit such as charred pineapple. I’ll be darned if those exact sort of layered nuances aren’t echoed—in near identical procession—in a dram of Chichicapa. It’s one of the standout bottlings from my go-to mezcal maker, Del Maguey, which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. Expect some imminent special releases as a result, both with and without the smoke. Bourbon geeks should drink … Planteray Sealander Rum ($53)  Sealander rum Source: Planteray Rum In its highest form, bourbon is a confectionary delight: dark chocolate-coated cherries, vanilla, cinnamon, coconut. It’s all ripe and ready for the picking. Rum gives us much of the same and even often ages in bourbon-soaked staves, so its appeal to American whiskey drinkers should be obvious. But being distilled from sugar cane rather than grain, it has a naturally lighter body that sometimes comes at the cost of being more facile. That’s not at all the case with this new release from Planteray, an intricate blend of pot and column still rums collected from three distinct regions: Barbados, Mauritius and Fiji. In fact, it’s the first rum to source liquid from three separate oceans, each of them aged in ex-bourbon casks before a yearlong marriage in Cognac barrels. Rich and brimming with the residual sweetness of vanilla and fudge, it will be an instant hit with anyone who enjoys a neat pour of decade-year-old Kentucky straight. Rye aficionados should drink ...Fords Gin Officers Reserve ($40)  Officers Reserve gin Source: Ford’s Gin When we talk about rye, we’re talking about spice, of course. The eponymous grain at its foundation is one that tickles the tongue. But if it’s presented properly, that other category of American whiskey is fresh with mint, cardamom and clove—notes that are immediately noticeable upon first sip of this limited-edition 110-proof gin. The folks at Fords blanket the spice in a subtle sweetness, with a brief resting in amontillado sherry casks. The resulting accord between savory and sweet is something that will appeal to any tried-and-true rye buyer. Empty this one out over the rocks with soda or tonic, however, and you’ve dialed up the summertime refreshment quotient to levels no rye could ever dare. Or tackle it neat as it’s that rarest of juniper-driven juices—a bona fide sipping gin. Japanese whisky lovers should drink ...Bhakta 27-07 Brandy ($80)  Bhakta brandy Source: Bhakta Japanese single malt embodies both subtle sophistication and nimble versatility. There’s the gentle shading of incense and cedar to the expressions aged in native mizunara oak. There’s also delicate body—often exuding orchard fruit—in lively liquids fit for highball preparation. (More on that later.) Seek out this wholly unusual bottling from Bhakta for something that loosely mirrors all of the above. As a blend of full-bodied Armagnac and apple-derived Calvados, it starts with that dry, almost tobacco-like seriousness. Then a frolicking band of candied apples and grilled pears parade atop the palate. It’s undeniable fun for the summer while maintaining a curious complexity. And, yes, it goes great in a highball. And speaking of highballs … |  Source: Getty Images I will now repent for my nonwhiskey transgressions by extolling the virtues of what I believe to be the most refreshing of all summertime cocktails. The whiskey highball is supersimple to make and nearly impossible to resist. This is coming from someone who almost exclusively prefers his booze neat and has never professed any skills in the elevated art of mixology. To the highball it matters not. In fact, the vessel—a tall Collins glass—is more vital to proper execution than the exacting combination of ingredients, of which there are two or three (if you count ice). Once you have the glassware sorted, all you really have to worry about is applying your soda delicately atop the whiskey and cubes, to preserve its effervescence. A nonnegotiable characteristic of my highball is a degree of bubbliness so spicy it hurts, along with a whiskey that’s sturdy enough to stand up to such conditions.  Hakushu 12 Year Old Source: Hakushu My platonic ideal is 12-year-old Japanese single malt from Suntory’s Hakushu distillery, best described as a verdant forest dram. Threads of mint, pine and pear are all elongated in the presence of fizzy water, preferably clocking in at an exacting 4 atmospheres of pressure. I suggest Topo Chico out of a glass bottle. That last ingredient is subject to debate. But the garnish is not: one fresh sprig of shiso. Obligatory. Just in time for summer, a couple of new American whiskey bottlings have come to my attention as all-star entrants into the game of seasonal highballing. Bourbon fans should round up a bottle of the exceptional Old Fitzgerald 7-year-old release. It holds buckwheat honey, brown sugar and citrus peel. Top off with soda and lemon zest and you’ve got instant poolside pounder. And unlike its older brother, this one is meant to be relatively affordable, retailing (for now) at $60 a bottle. So you shouldn’t feel any compunction mixing it with sparkling water and ice.  Old Fitzgerald 7 Year Bottled-in-Bond Source: Old Fitzgerald You should absolutely feel a sense of guilt, however, highballing the new President’s Choice Rye from Old Forester. It’s among the rarest, most exclusive ryes the famed 155-year-old Kentucky producer has ever committed to glass. The cask strength release—which varies between 11- to 125-proof depending on the bottling—is already selling for $1,300 on the secondary market. Springy with ripened berry fruit, yet bold with minted spice, it’s undoubtedly on the short list of the best ryes I’ve sampled all year. Neat, of course. Ultimately, though, those same alluring top notes whispered in my ear something rather sinister, like a devil upon my shoulder: “MIX IT!” And so I did, adulterating the ultra-premium whiskey with an entire can of Fever Tree—and scientific precision. Fresh mint and blackberry were last to enter the glass. I don’t have any reasons. I’ve left them all behind. I’m in a highball state of mind. | 
