Good morning. Today, we get a view from inside Iran. Also:
Plus, the U.S. Open finals.
What I saw in Iran: a country on edge
It’s very hard for journalists to get visas into Iran. But I recently managed to spend about a week reporting in Tehran, taking the temperature of the country in a difficult moment — the aftermath of its 12-day war with Israel. The visual evidence of the war is beginning to fade, but nobody believes it’s really over. I spoke with all kinds of people. They shared a sense of apprehension about what was to come. But I saw vast differences during my time in Tehran. I visited a memorial for one of the Iranian generals killed in the attack — the leader of the Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps, the most powerful part of Iran’s powerful security forces. Mourners flowed in, greeted by commanders who themselves were replacing other generals who had been killed by Israel only weeks earlier. They pumped their fists and chanted, “Death to America” and “Death to Israel.” “My blood is boiling with anger,” one man in the crowd told me. “I am the soldier of Khamenei,” he said, referring to the country’s supreme leader. That’s a familiar image of Iran that the world often sees. But that’s not all of the country. Iran is a young country, with a median age of 33 and a population that’s extremely plugged into the outside world via the internet, despite government restrictions. And in some places, like a coffee shop I visited named Cafe Godot, after the play by Samuel Beckett, you can find young Iranians with very different ideas about their country. Although the government supplied our translator, whose work we verified, and fear of the authorities is pervasive, many people spoke with surprising candor. Since the death of a young woman in police custody in 2022 that set off huge protests, many young women are no longer wearing the mandatory hijab. And that’s just one part of a broader generational reckoning.
Many Iranians are tired of confrontation with the West, which has brought isolation and punishing sanctions. But while they desire change, they do not want it to be imposed by outside military forces — particularly Israel and the U.S. That’s why the hopes of some Israeli leaders — that the war might spark a popular revolt — proved wildly misplaced. But their own personal circumstances are often hard. In the past few months, people have been contending with water and electricity shortages, something they had never had before. Even beyond the issue of politics, they feel weary. The fighting with Israel has stopped for now, but there’s an expectation among Iranians that this status quo cannot hold. The country’s defenses are weak and its leaders face some hard choices, especially around its nuclear program. I think the coming months could be quite consequential. We are making changes to this newsletter. Let us know what you think. Write to us at briefing@nytimes.com.
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In most of Japan, the ancient Noh form of theater is an arcane art practiced by professional troupes. But that’s not the case on Sado Island in the Sea of Japan, which has 34 Noh stages, about one-third of the remaining stages in the country. The fishing and farming communities there have made the medieval art form a central part of their local culture. Children learn about Noh in school, and residents perform it at religious festivals. Read more.
Alcaraz won the U.S. Open, regaining the No. 1 spotThe men’s final ended with Carlos Alcaraz defeating Jannik Sinner. The fast-paced match was decided by Alcaraz’s superior serve and forehand, as well as his ability to disrupt Sinner’s rhythm. Read more. The match was delayed about 45 minutes because of security measures for the arrival of Trump, who was greeted with mostly boos. The United States Tennis Association asked broadcasters of the event not to show any protests or reaction to Trump’s appearance, The Athletic reported. We hope you’ve enjoyed this newsletter, which is made possible through subscriber support. Subscribe to The New York Times.
Toss: This aguachile shrimp salad draws from the flavors of the Pacific Coast of Mexico. Watch: A new documentary examines how the Nazi propagandist Leni Riefenstahl tried to rewrite history. Read: In “The Arrogant Ape,” a primatologist argues that other animals have feelings and consciousness (and that we’re not so special). Get up: Sitting all day can cause “dead butt syndrome.” (No, that’s not the technical term.) Compete: Play our Flashback history quiz.
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