Beauty School answers common beauty questions with help from creative people who’ve become experts on the job. Sign up here to find us in your inbox once a month, and send any questions of your own to tmagazine@nytimes.com.  |
Most of us have battled chapped lips at one point or another — or all winter, every winter, for as long as we can remember. “Unlike the rest of the face, the skin there lacks oil glands,” says the London-based aesthetician Jasmina Vico, “making it particularly vulnerable to dryness and dehydration,” especially in the colder months, when low temperatures and dry air — both outdoors and in — can compromise the skin barrier. “Many people also lick their lips, and as saliva evaporates, it exacerbates dryness,” Vico says. As common and frustrating as this beauty concern is, finding lasting relief isn’t always easy, as so many lip products seem to do very little. Here, advice from three people who are experts in maintaining smooth lips: Vico, whose celebrity clients include Margot Robbie and Angelina Jolie; Slick Woods, a model celebrated for her iconic pout; and Gabrielle Garo, a woodwind instrumentalist who has toured with Beyoncé and Lizzo. Jasmina Vico, 49, aesthetician | | From left: Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask, $29, tatcha.com; Aquaphor Healing Balm Stick, $13, ulta.com; Violette_Fr Balm Amour, $26, violettefr.com; VicoSkin Screen Star, about $141, vicoskin.com; Artah Cellular Hydration, about $43, artah.co; Vaseline Lip Therapy Rosy Lips, $4, target.com; and By Terry Baume de Rose Lip Balm, $54, byterry.com Vico: Christopher Andreou; products: courtesy of the brands |
- The first consideration is hydration. And because the lips can’t moisturize themselves, internal hydration is essential. Adding electrolytes — such as Artah’s Cellular Hydration — to the water you drink can help your skin cells absorb and retain fluids.
- I exfoliate my lips very gently with a soft manual toothbrush or muslin cloth. Then, I often use my VicoSkin Screen Star serum — although it’s formulated for the face, it contains fatty acids, macro algae and seaweed, all of which quench thirsty lips. I’ll layer that with a balm with an ingredient like squalane, beeswax or shea butter; Tatcha’s Kissu Lip Mask is a favorite.
- For anyone seeking long-term relief from dryness with a subtle plumping effect, PRP bio-filler is an alternative to synthetic dermal fillers. This in-clinic treatment uses your own plasma: A small amount of blood is taken, spun in a centrifuge and then injected into the lips. It delivers growth factors, stimulating collagen production and enhancing the skin’s ability to hold moisture over time.
- Ingredients like menthol and camphor create that familiar tingly sensation but can irritate and dry your lips out further. Instead, I like Violette_FR’s Balm Amour, which has an applicator with a cooling and soothing porcelain tip. By Terry’s Baum de Rose lip balm is another favorite, and for a subtle hint of color, Vaseline’s Rosy Lips works brilliantly. When I need a little extra TLC, Aquaphor’s Healing Balm Stick is my go-to because it deeply repairs, protects the skin barrier and locks in moisture — if you find yourself continually licking your lips, try this.
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Slick Woods, 29, model | | From left: Aquaphor Healing Ointment, $7, walgreens.com; Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay, $20, aztecsecret.com; Fenty Beauty Trace’d Out Longwear Waterproof Pencil Lip Liner, $22, and Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer, $23, both fentybeauty.com. Woods: courtesy of Slick Woods; products: courtesy of the brands |
- In the wintertime, I make a simple natural scrub using raw honey and a pinch of natural sea salt. Whenever I notice any rough skin on my lips, I use my fingers to delicately but thoroughly work the mix in, then rinse it off in the shower. If there’s still any dry or flaky skin left, I repeat the process.
- When my lips are extremely dry, I’ll mix a small amount of raw apple cider vinegar into my favorite mask, Aztec Secret’s Indian Healing Clay, to cleanse and smooth my whole face. I finish with Aquaphor’s Healing Ointment on my lips. I prefer it over traditional ChapSticks, which tend to dry my skin out rather than hydrate it.
- I love the original Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb. It has a subtle sparkle that creates the illusion of fuller, juicier lips, even when they’re feeling dry. When I’m at a shoot with [the Fenty makeup artist] Hector Espinal, he always adds a touch of lip liner for extra definition.
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Gabrielle Garo, 28, musician | | From left: Makeup by Mario Ultra Suede Sculpting Lip Pencil, $26, makeupbymario.com; L’Oréal Paris Pure Sugar Scrub, $14, walmart.com; Burt’s Bees Tinted Lip Balm, $5, burtsbees.com; and e.l.f. Cosmetics Glow Reviver Lip Oil, $9, ulta.com. Garo: Lauren Desberg; products: courtesy of the brands |
- Long hours on the saxophone, especially because of its wooden reed, can irritate my lips, while the flute demands that they’re smooth and well-moisturized; any roughness or dead skin can disrupt airflow and affect tone. To keep them soft, I use L’Oréal Paris’s Pure Sugar Scrub, massaging it onto damp skin, letting it sit while I shower and then rinsing with cool water.
- I’m never without Burt’s Bees — I use the Tinted Lip Balm in Red Dahlia or Vanilla Bean day and night.
- About an hour before I go onstage, after I’ve applied the balm, I apply Makeup by Mario’s Ultra Suede in Mauve, which is a creamy lip pencil, followed by e.l.f.’s Glow Reviver Lip Oil in Rose Envy for a subtle tint. Then, when it’s time to play, I wipe off the top layers; the pencil stays intact, so my lips still look polished without the gloss interfering with my playing.
- I start every day with a glass of warm lemon water, stay well hydrated besides and eat plenty of vegetables and greens. All of this supports healthy skin and lips, so that when winter comes around, they’re not fighting for their life.
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T RecommendsThese interviews have been edited and condensed. Read past editions of Beauty School here. |