Beauty School: Wet hair
Expert advice from Tyla, Amber Valletta and Candice Birns.
T Magazine
July 24, 2026

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A wet-look hairstyle telegraphs offhand ease, no matter how you finesse it — mussed or slicked back, seemingly fresh from the beach or the shower — or what you pair it with. “If you’re in a beautifully pressed Armani or Valentino suit, what’s better than a great wet look that you can move your hands through?” says the Los Angeles-based hairstylist Candice Birns, whose clients include Harry Styles and the actor Connor Storrie. The style plays well across a range of lengths and textures and, with help from products that tamp down humidity-induced frizz, is ideal for summer. Here, tips and recommendations from Birns; the American model Amber Valletta, who appeared with wet-looking hair in last fall’s Versace campaign; and the South African musician Tyla, who wore mermaid waves to the 2026 Met Gala.

Candice Birns, 44, hairstylist

A portrait of Candice Birns next to a collage of beauty products.
From left: Davines OI Oil, $28, davines.com; Gatsby Tancho Hair Wax Stick, $15, amazon.com; Bumble and Bumble Thickening Spray, $36, bumbleandbumble.com; Oribe Curl Control Silkening Crème, $46, oribe.com; R+Co Aircraft Pomade Mousse, $38, randco.com. Birns: Courtesy of Candice Birns; products: Courtesy of the brands
  • There’s something slightly feral about a wet look — it’s sexy, undone hair. I have folders of reference photos of River Phoenix and Johnny Depp in the ’90, along with old Hugo Boss and Calvin Klein campaigns.
  • The level of “wet” can range from zero to 10. The important thing is how you build products into the hair. I start with a little Bumble and Bumble Thickening Spray, applying it from the roots down the length of the hair for some control. Then I often mix a curl cream with Davines’s OI Oil and apply that at the ends. I add whatever’s left on my hands to the top, but you don’t want to overdo it there, or else the hair can become flat. And R+Co’s Aircraft is a genius mousse pomade for grunge and grit — I use that and the other products on wet hair, [varying the amount of each] depending on the client’s texture and density.
  • If you need a little lift in the front, I swear by a Tancho stick, a type of Japanese wax. I layer it into the hair while it’s still wet. That way, when you add heat with a blow dryer, all the products melt into place. Sometimes I’ll go back in with a flat iron to reintroduce some waves. And for those fine, little pieces that are not contrived yet totally contrived, I’ll coat them with Shine Paste by STMNT.

Amber Valletta, 52, model and actress

A portrait of Amber Valletta next to a collage of beauty products.
From left: T3 SinglePass StyleMax flat iron, $180, t3micro.com; Yves Durif comb, $55, yvesdurif.com; Dyson Supersonic hair dryer, $400, dyson.com; Mason Pearson tail comb, $43, dermstore.com; Olaplex No. 7 Bonding Oil, $32, olaplex.com; Gatsby Moving Rubber Cool Wet hair wax, $12, amazon.com. Valetta: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images; products: Courtesy of the brands
  • A wet look doesn’t have to be complicated. If I’m going out, the easiest technique is to use a flexible water-based gel on my wet hair and rake it back with a wide-tooth comb. That helps define my waves without making them feel crunchy.
  • A bit of wax comes in handy for those baby hairs that stick up in front or along the part. My hair can be a bit frizzy, so I’ll just hit those spots before I comb everything back.
  • Tune into what looks good on you. The hairstylist Teddy Charles, who’s my partner in life, did my hair for this year’s Vanity Fair Oscar Party. There were a few wispy pieces stuck to my forehead, as if I’d come out of the water, which made the look more soft-feeling. A fine-tooth comb is useful for that detail work.
  • For more structured styles, heat tools can help set a foundation, smoothing the hair and decreasing flyaways. Always use a heat protectant, like the Bonding Oil. Dyson makes a fantastic hair dryer, and a good round brush gives you traction. I also like the flat irons by T3, if you want that piecey, ’90s vibe.

Tyla, 24, musician

A portrait of Tyla next to a collage of beauty products.
From left: Yusef cushion paddle brush, $20, ybyyusef.com; Amika Power Hour Curl Refreshing Spray, $30, loveamika.com; Yusef six-piece carbon comb set (cutting comb shown), $30, ybyyusef.com; Amika Hydro Rush Intense Moisture Mask, $44, loveamika.com. Tyla: Daniel Cole/Reuters; products: Courtesy of the brands
  • I love that wet hair looks like it wasn’t styled, even though it was. Usually when I wear it, it’s a last-minute decision. Sometimes, I might even try on an outfit and then jump back into the shower or put my head in the sink.
  • When I style it myself, I use a lot of conditioner. I like a thick formula — I have 3B curls — such as Amika’s Hydro Rush. On wet hair, I typically use the cushion paddle brush by Yusef [a hairstylist who has worked with Tyla] or one of his combs, though sometimes I just use my fingers to spread the conditioner evenly. I leave it in, flip my head over and tie my hair into a T-shirt while I do my makeup, and then I let it down, scrunching the curls as needed.
  • I don’t like my edges looking too laid — I prefer when the hair falls naturally. I brush it neat, and the conditioner does its job, keeping the hair wet for a longer time. Amika’s Power Hour spray can also refresh the curls. The idea is for it to be effortless: I start the day with one look and end it with another.

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These interviews have been edited and condensed.

Read past editions of Beauty School here.

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